Since the vine is a climber, in order to grow it successfully, it needs support or support for growth. Grapevines are rarely grown without support, and if such cultivation is used, it is almost always vineyards in very warm regions, such as our Dalmatia.
Armature in the vineyard
As we mentioned, growing vines is almost impossible without reinforcement that includes:
- columns
- wires
- anchors
- wire tensioners
- additional equipment (carriers, chains, hooks and others)
Pillars for the vineyard
The main part of the reinforcement for the vines are the posts that are installed mostly 10 months to a year after planting, in the spring months of the second growing season. They are usually placed parallel, and each set direction determines a special row in the vineyard. At the very beginning and at the end of each row, “front posts” are placed, and the rest are placed at a certain distance between them.
The posts can be immediately driven into the ground (by hand or machine) or placed in pre-dug pits.
Each individual post must be very strong both in the ground and above ground. This is the only way we will be sure of a well-placed reinforcement on which the vine will not swing and move. To achieve this, the post must be placed in the ground at a minimum depth of 60 cm. If you plant vines on sandy soil, then place the posts even deeper into the ground, up to 80 cm. In an area with frequent gusts of wind, the posts are placed even deeper or even more posts are placed in each row.
The material from which the columns for use in the vineyard are made consists of plastic, concrete, impregnated wood and different types of metal. They can be with pre-drilled holes or without holes through which the wires will be passed.
The dimensions are different, ranging from columns with a length of 2 to 2.7 meters. If you plan to install anti-hail nets, the length of the posts could be up to 5 meters. If you use pergolas whose roof goes diagonally, then it is necessary to use special poles that are similar to turned hockey sticks. The breaking angle of such columns is from 110 to 120 degrees.
Fixing the front pillars
The front pillars can be anchored, i.e. fixed, in two ways, namely:
with different techniques of leaning the front pillar on the support laid diagonally
different techniques for tying the top of the pole which is laid diagonally., It is tied with a wire exclusively to an anchor firmly placed in the ground.
Larger concrete stones containing steel or iron reinforcement, concreted pits, or as a finished product – propeller screws of different sizes that rotate clockwise and thus dig into the ground can serve as anchors.
Wires
With the help of wire, we can tie the vine to the armature and pull the movable part of the vine. Different systems are available adapted to the number of wires for placing reinforcement in the vineyard.
All wires are galvanized, and pure steel with a diameter of 1.6 to 2 mm and stainless steel with a diameter of 1.2 to 1.4 mm can also be used.
Tensioners
In the first two to three years of cultivation, it is not necessary to use tensioners. However, after the grapes bear more fruit or the vineyard is hit by strong winds due to a storm, the wires stretch a little, so it is necessary to fasten them lightly every spring after you finish the pruning work.
Wires are tightened in two ways:
- manual tensioning by loosening one end of the wire on one or both front posts. In parallel, after tightening, the ends of the wires are fixed.
- manual tightening so that the ends of the wires do not come loose (with special tensioners). There are several different tensioners, the difference being that some have to be installed at the same time as the wire, and others later.
Additional brackets
If you are using posts that do not have holes for the wires, you will also need additional supports. These are supports that are made of high-quality stainless steel material, and which can be attached to the posts with the corresponding screws and nuts.
Place the supports horizontally, in the place where the wire passes on the pole. The wire is placed in the provided slots. Metal clamps are also available, which can be used to gird the column on the upper part, and serve as a solid place from which the wire is stretched towards the anchor.
If you use wooden posts, it is important to use U- or L-shaped hooks that go into the wood itself with their longer ends. They are attached by screwing or nailing. The wires that you place on the L-shaped hooks can be removed as needed, which is particularly important during pruning because it allows for a better effect.
In the case of using chains that are 30 cm long, they are tied to the ends of the wires. They increase the tension of the wires and are easily removed during pruning. Stretching is easy. It is enough just to change the supporting link on the hook of each front pillar.
Selection of the substrate for planting
The substrate must be adapted to the climatic conditions of the area where the vineyard will be planted. When choosing a substrate, special attention should be paid to the chemical analysis of the soil, i.e. whether it contains physiologically active lime.
In Europe, vines are not planted on their own roots because European varieties are not resistant to vine aphids (phylloskera). After the aphid arrived on European soil, the grafting of the vine began because it attacks the root itself. The vine is grafted onto the American Vitis species, which is resistant to the pest. When crossing varieties, the best results were achieved when American varieties were crossed. For this purpose, crossed American species and some noble lines were created. More and more work is being done to create even better substrates, and as a result, complex crosses are created.
The characteristics of a good substrate are:
- good immunity (resistance to vine aphid)
- submission of lime in the soil
- good rooting
- adaptability to soil and climate
The American variety of the genus Vitis is mostly used as a substrate, and its species are used:
- Vitis rupestris – comes from moderately warm parts of North America, and is characterized by a deeply laid root system.
- Vitis berlandieri – originates from warm and dry parts of North America, and grows in an area with a higher percentage of lime in the soil. The root is located deep in the soil. As a rootstock, it is the least widespread because cuttings take root very poorly.
- Vitis riparia – since it is from North America, it is adapted to growing in colder areas. It is characterized by great exuberance, short vegetation and shallow and branched roots.
More than the species themselves, the use of their crosses has expanded, which can be divided into three subgroups:
- Vitis berlandieri × Vitis rupestris
- Vitis berlandieri × Vitis riparia
- Vitis riparia × Vitis rupestris
Vitis berlandieri × Vitis rupestris
A type of longer growing cycle (late ripening) which is especially important if you plan to plant vines in northern, wetter areas. In that case, avoid this type.
It is a good substrate for warm areas whose soils are stony, dry and sandy. The lime content can be medium or higher (16 to 30 percent FAV). It takes root well and goes well with other varieties.
The most important substrates from the mentioned group are:
- 1103 Paulsen
- 140 Rg (Ruggers)
- 99 Richter
- 110 Richter
Vitis berlandieri × Vitis riparia
The most commonly used subgroup in most vineyards in continental Croatia. It goes well with almost all varieties. Only some table varieties do not suit her.
It takes root well, but its lushness is different – which depends on the species itself. It is good for reproduction. It supports lime in the soil (30 to 50 percent of total lime and 16 to 25 percent of physiologically active lime).
The most commonly used substrates from the mentioned subgroup are:
- Teleki 5C
- Kober 125AA
- 225 Ruggeri
- SO4
- 420 A
- Teleki 8B
- Kober 5BB
Vitis riparia × Vitis rupestris
An excellent species resistant to vine aphid and goes well with most species belonging to the noble vine group. They can be grown on different soils, but they only tolerate a slightly lower concentration of lime.
The most commonly used substrates from the mentioned subgroup are:
- 101-14 MG
- Schwartzman
- 3306 C
- 3309 C
In the nursery, it is possible to obtain a substrate for all types of soil in our areas, and the most important substrate of all the above is certainly the Kober 5 BB substrate. Its biggest advantage is that it can adapt well to all soils.
Preparations before planting vines
The vine is a perennial crop, so before planting the plantations themselves, quality work should be done, which will create ideal conditions for the development of the above-ground parts of the plant and its root system. A well-developed vine will maintain resistance in all weather conditions and will provide a good yield even in unfavorable ones.
Before raising plantations, it is necessary to make preparations such as:
- arrangement of the place where the vines will be planted (planning of production in the field and clearing of vegetation that was previously planted on the ground)
- soil preparation for raising plantations
- drainage and irrigation (hydromelioration)
- fertilization and weeding (agromelioration)
Soil preparation for vineyard planting
Usually, vineyards are built in places where there was a vineyard before, where fruit trees were grown or where thickets grew. Therefore, to begin with, the surface needs to be cleared well, while all the remains of the roots of previously planted plants should be removed in order to minimize the possibility of infection from previously planted crops (rot fungi).
In older vineyards, the appearance of various viral diseases often occurs, so if you want to plant new vineyards, in a place where vines have already grown, leave the soil to rest for a minimum of six years or carry out soil disinfection.
If you have decided to wait, use the time to grow vegetable crops suitable for green manure, which will contribute to the improvement of organic matter in the soil.
Today, the grubbing process is most often done with the help of a machine. Although, on small areas for home use, manual tillage is also common.
Terrain planning
After clearing the soil, the next step involves planning the surface, i.e. leveling the soil on slightly inclined and flat surfaces, filling and, if necessary, creating terraces on those slopes that are greater than 12 to 15 percent. The aim of these measures is to prevent the retention of water later on, which could endanger the roots if it were left in the ground for a long time, and thus the whole vine would fail.
Terrain planning work is performed with bulldozers that have built-in leveling boards. For smaller areas, graders are used that are attached to the tractor.
Leveling must also be carried out on areas where there was no vegetation before and there are no major plant remains.
If you notice excess water, it is necessary to remove it through drainage systems (underground channels) or dispose of excess surface and catchment water in open channels.
The process of terracing the surface is carried out only if vines are grown for expensive and high-quality wines, because it is a demanding and expensive job.
It is recommended to leave 5 percent of the surface uncultivated. It can be a habitat for beneficial organisms. If you have a larger area at your disposal, organize roads and plots.
Tillage by plowing
The cultivation of the soil that precedes the raising of plantations is called deep plowing or plowing. It creates better conditions for the development of young vines.
Rigging can be carried out:
- bulldozers
- subversives
- excavators
- tractors with a power of 90 to 150 KW
- canal diggers
Rigging is done at the end of summer or beginning of autumn.
If you are going to plant the vineyard in the autumn months, it is necessary to do the rooting two to three months before the beginning of the planting. If the vineyard is planted in the spring, prune in the autumn months, before the first frosts.
During the winter months, the soil will freeze, which will contribute to its better fragmentation.
Rigging is done at a depth of 60 to 100 cm, and which depth you choose will depend on the climate in the selected area and the properties of the soil itself. As a rule, in more fertile soils where planting conditions are wetter, weeding is done up to 70 cm, while in permeable and shallow soils, weeding is done at a depth of 60 cm.
By plowing, the very structure of the soil, biological activity and water and air conditions are improved. It allows them to mix the soil horizons and remove all the remains of the vegetation that previously grew on that soil. In addition, it is possible to better redistribute mineral and organic fertilizers deeper into the ground where the root system will develop.
Undermining improves the water-air relations in the soil, as well as the quality of the soil in plantations that are several years old. It is done in the summer months, when the soil is loose and dry, every three to five years. It is a mechanical measure by which we get rid of excess water from the root system, the soil becomes better structured, which encourages better growth of the root system.
By undermining, the soil is not turned or mixed (as with plowing or milling), but is crushed and cracked. Cultivators are used to loosen the soil around the roots, to break up the upper hard and impermeable surface of the soil and release water, moisture and nutrients into the deeper layers of the soil.
Containers for mineral fertilizer (depositor) can be added to the tiller, which can be used to lay mineral fertilizer next to the root system.
When preparing for planting vines, tillage is done at depths greater than 80 cm, while for regular maintenance it is enough to penetrate with a submersible to a depth of 40 to 80 cm.
Because their work is simple and high-quality, the underminers are often used as an aid in the cultivation of vineyards and orchards.
Ameliorative fertilization
The mentioned fertilization enriches the soil in the zone where the root system will develop. This will supply the soil with nutrients for growth, and will ultimately affect high and regular yields.
Before the preparatory work and the planting of vine cuttings, a chemical analysis of the soil is carried out, which will determine the amount of plant nutrients in the soil. Considering the needs, and after the analysis, soil calcification is also performed.
For the good growth of vines, it is important to determine the supply of organic substances and potassium, phosphorus and calcium carbonate in the soil.
Fertilization itself is performed with regard to the results after the analysis.
Organic and mineral fertilization is carried out along the entire surface of the soil before the weeding process begins. This will distribute the fertilizer well along the entire soil.
For planting vines, the best soil is the one that contains:
- 10 to 15 mg per 100 grams of soil of phosphorus pentoxide
- 20 to 40 mg per 100 grams of soil of potassium oxide
- 2 to 3 percent humus
Most often, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are used, and increasingly NPK fertilizers that contain a low percentage of nitrogen, namely: NPK 5:20:30, NPK 7:20:30 or NPK 7:14:21. For soils that contain sufficient amounts of potassium, the NPK formulation 15:52:0 is used.
Recently, the magnesium content in the soil is being looked at more and more. Many vines are grown on soils that are rich in lime or potassium, but deficient in magnesium. In these cases, the soil should be fertilized with kizerite – 100 kilograms per one hectare.
It also happens that the soil is poor in humus, so it is necessary to increase the content of organic fertilizers in the soil through compost and manure or sow crops that will enable green fertilization. The aforementioned will improve the biological, chemical and physical properties of the soil.
Plating
When the soil is dry, and just before planting, the soil is flattened. After that, the soil is planned with a leveler. With this, the preparation work for the planting of the vineyard has been brought to an end.
After that, the work continues:
- staking out plots
- arrangement of roads in the vineyard (main and secondary)
- row direction selection
- selection of planting spacing
- marking planting sites
When you have chosen the area where you will plant the vines, it is necessary to determine the rows and the distance between the planting of each individual vine scion.
Selection of row direction
The direction of rows for planting vines depends on:
- environmental conditions of the planting location (wind, sun)
- terrain configuration
In the northern, continental regions, the recommended direction of the rows for planting is north – south, so that the positions of the vines are bathed in light and sun for most of the day. If you are going to plant vines in the southern regions, the direction of the rows is not so important because it is an area with a greater number of sunny hours.
The intensity and direction of the wind are extremely important for planting, and the rows for planting should be determined based on it. If your vine plantations will be in areas with stronger gusts of wind, definitely consider planting windbreak belt plants.
The direction of the rows in smaller areas is also limited by the shape of the plot itself, so in that case it is best to place them lengthwise. For larger plots, it is necessary to plan so that all works such as tillage, maintenance and protection are planned and carried out as well as possible. If you are building a vineyard on a sloping plot, place it in such a way as to reduce possible erosion as much as possible.
Choosing the distance between the vines
The planting interval in the vineyard depends on a large number of factors, some of which are:
- shape of the terrain
- environmental conditions
- the lushness of the variety itself
- breeding form
- use of machines
When planning a vineyard nowadays, mechanization (choice of machines) with the help of which the maintenance of the vineyard will be carried out is the most important consideration.
Therefore, if you use small tractors (30 hp) and motor cultivators of the same power, the distance between the rows should be from 1.2 to 2.2 meters, and within the row from 0.7 to 1.2 meters. Tractors whose power is higher, i.e. above 50 HP, the distance between the rows ranges from 2.4 to 4 meters, while the distance between the rows can be from 0.9 to 1 meter.
If you grow table varieties, the distance between rows and within rows will depend on the species itself, and can be between 2.8 to 3.5 meters between rows and within a row from 1.3 to 2 meters.
The selected intervals depend on the specificity of individual vineyards and the places where they are grown.
Placing stakes on the plot
If you are building a vineyard on a larger area, first determine the length and width of the boards. The optimal row length is from 1 to 1.3 meters. Longer rows are not recommended because it is more difficult to maintain the reinforcement, which is especially important in areas where wind gusts can cause more damage.
Arrangement of roads
All main roads in the vineyard must be placed vertically with regard to the direction of the rows. Their width should be from 5 to 7 meters in order to enable the passage of vehicles and machines that you will need to maintain the vineyard.
Side roads are placed perpendicular to the main road, but parallel to the direction in which the rows go. Their width should be from 3 to 5 meters.
Preparations for planting vines
Before you start planting vines, mark the planting sites in order to plan the vineyard well. If you are planting vines on larger areas, you will need the help of a theodolite (surveying instrument). With it, you will be able to determine with certainty in which direction the first row will go, because all other rows must be at right angles to that first row.
Vines can be planted in:
If you are going to plant in pits, mark each place additionally with a stake, and if it will be in furrows, place the stakes at a distance of 20 to 30 m.
On slightly smaller, and often irregular areas, staking is done so that the first and basic row is determined on the part of the plot that is the longest in terms of area, while all other rows are determined with regard to it. To make marking easier, use brightly colored wires that should be stretched well. All this will affect better visibility.
Planting vines
A good yield and successful production largely depend on quality seedlings, that is, a good vine graft for planting. In order to meet all of the above, said seedlings must be healthy with a well-developed root system and at least three well-developed root shoots (1 to 2 mm at the base).
The root must be properly distributed, the rootstock must be mature, with well-developed buds. The joint must be callused, that is, completely fused. Check to see if it is callused by placing your thumb on the bone. It should then not separate from the substrate.
Planting material must be disinfected so that young plants do not become infected with viruses and certified.
The use of paraffin-embedded vaccines is recommended because they have a number of advantages. For example, the connection point cannot dry out, lateral roots develop less, and the grafts do not get covered.
Since the vine remains planted in the same place for many years (25 to 30 years), it is necessary to choose a planting position that will suit it best and where favorable yields will be achieved with high-quality grape varieties.
Before planting vine plantations, it is necessary to assess the success of production, the possibility of ecological planting of vines, the general organization of work related to the market, mechanization, transport, processing.
Types of planting
The winegrower must decide for himself which type of planting to choose, and it will depend on the size of the plot, the type of vine and the configuration of the terrain.
Planting vine grafts can be done:
- manually (by digging pits, planting in rows and with the help of hydro-devices)
- mechanically
Time to plant vines
Vines are planted in:
The planting time depends on whether you plant the vine in the Mediterranean or continental part of Croatia. Spring planting is generally recommended, especially in continental areas where winters are harsh and temperatures are below freezing. Plant it from March to May, and the exact month of planting also depends on the choice of soil type. Plant earlier on lighter, sandy soils, and later on heavier, loamy soils.
Autumn planting is recommended exclusively in areas with mild winters, where there is no danger of soil freezing, which is possible in the Mediterranean parts of the country.
Favorable space for planting vines
Favorable areas for planting vines are considered:
- positions with an appropriate slope, exposure and altitude that ensure good air circulation, sunshine and a lower risk of fog and low temperatures (frost)
- appropriate positions with respect to variety
- those positions whose soils are well structured, drained and permeable, with humus above 1.5 percent and without groundwater
Before planting each vine graft, it is necessary to remove damaged roots. Cut the roots to a healthy part and soak the cuttings in water for 24 hours.
Just before planting, soak the cuttings in a mixture of water, fresh cow dung and soil in a ratio of 1:1:1.
Weather conditions for planting vines
Planting vines is done in dry and warm weather. Do not plant vines in wet soil as this poses too much of a risk for planting.
The soil must be of optimal humidity, well arranged and marked, and with stakes placed next to the planting site.
Add a small amount of black soil to the bottom of the planting pit to help the vine take root more easily. Lay the vine graft in the ground and place trampled loose soil around it. At the end, add pelleted manure and cover the vines.
More information
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